I therefore chose 1,8mm LEDs for my project.ĭue to tax reasons, I went for 68 BOX Jade switches, and 50 Gateron Green switches.
The clickly switches only support 1,8mm through hole LEDs, due to the click bar. For the linear and tactile switches, this can be 1,8mm or 2x3x4mm through hole LEDs. However, the LED can also fit inside the switch. This is the switch I chose to replace the MX Blues on my G710 with.ĭue to the BOX switches being enclosed, they don't support the 3mm through hole LEDs on my G710. This makes the switch much more tactile, and the sound deeper. On the BOX Jade, the click bar is 0,30mm thick. On the normal BOX White, the click bar is 0,25mm thick. The tactile feedback is also less defined. On Cherry MX switches, the sound is a bit more rattly, and it produces a clicky sound only on the downstroke. This makes the sound and tactility much sharper, and it produces a click on both the upstroke and the downstroke. This is compared to the Cherry MX, whish is rated IP40 and for 50 million key presses.Ĭlick bar (torsion spring) on the BOX White.Ĭherry MX Blue mechanism, with the click jacket. This makes them rated IP56 and for 80 million key presses. They have a box around the stem, and around the contact point. There are, however, some major differences. They are compatible with Cherry MX keycaps, plates and pins. These are relatively new switches made by Kailh. For switches, I went with the Kailh/Novelkeys BOX Jade switches. And because the rest of my room is white, I also wanted to paint the keyboard white. Painting the mounting plate white is obvious. And the sound is not that great, compared to some other switches. Newer keyboards often have white plates, which makes for much more, and more even underglow.Īnd the MX Blue switches are tactile for Cherry switches, but you can get far more tactile switches. Glossy plastic is as bad as ever fingerprints and oils everywhere. The mounting plate is black. Especially that blue part around the macro keys stands out, but not in a good way.
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